Les fourneaux de Yaya Barry (par Tierno Monénembo)

VÉCU. Conçue par une repat formée en France pour combler le manque de personnel qualifié dans son restaurant, l’École guinéenne de gastronomie s’impose aujourd’hui dans le choix des professionnels du métier.

Impossible par les temps qui courent d’échapper à la vigilance des lecteurs, les chroniqueurs de tous bords devraient se le tenir pour dit. Dans mon avant-dernier papier, je me plaignais du peu d’intérêt que les Africains accordent aux produits de leur terroir et exhortais nos cordons bleus à innover tout en respectant le taro et l’igname, le sorgho et le niébé. Mon ton pessimiste et un tantinet provocateur a aussitôt fait réagir. Une dame nommée Yaya Barry m’a appelé pour me reprocher d’appartenir au camp affligeant des afro-pessimistes : « Non, monsieur, la cuisine africaine n’est pas morte. Si les nègres-blancs des beaux quartiers se vantent de déguster de la choucroute ou des asperges en sirotant du riesling ou du sancerre, le gros de la population se nourrit toujours de manioc et d’igname et boit du jus de gingembre ou du vin de palme. Et, croyez-moi, nous les cuisiniers africains n’avons pas attendu votre article pour procéder à l’inventaire et innover. Vous en voulez une preuve ? Venez visiter l’école de gastronomie que je viens de fonder ! »

Seule école de gastronomie à Conakry…

Mea culpa ! Une école de gastronomie ici, à Conakry, à quelques encablures de chez moi ! Si seulement je m’en étais douté, j’aurais certainement revu ma copie ! À la bonne heure ! Tout le monde connaît l’attiéké ivoirien, le gari béninois, le tiep-diène sénégalais ou le ndolé camerounais. En revanche, qui connaît le bourakhé, le konkoyé, le n’dappa, le kétoun, le lâfidi, le tombogui ou le mananguélé ? Ces délicieux mets guinéens sont tout simplement en voie de disparition, faute de soutien et de promotion. La Guinée, qui détient pourtant la plus grande diversité végétale de l’Afrique de l’Ouest (dont des centaines de plantes comestibles), se contente de consommer du blé européen ou du riz asiatique. Elle n’a fourni aucun effort pour soutenir ses produits vivriers et moderniser sa cuisine. Dans les rares restaurants dignes de ce nom, on ne trouve au menu que des produits importés. Jamais de manioc, jamais de taro, d’igname ou de banane plantain ! Que fait l’État guinéen ?

Lire la suite

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